Becasse Chef's Table, Sydney

If there's one thing you notice about Justin North's kitchen, it's how quiet it is. Forget the stereotyped image of a raging head chef barking orders at his brigade; the Becasse kitchen sounds more like a library, with a young team working steadily and efficiently under the guidance of head chef Monty Koludrovic.

Last night I had the pleasure of dining at the Chef's Table at Becasse, ahead of